Seoul, South Korea: Changdeokgung in Winter

The upside to the snow was that Changdeokgung blanketed with snow looks absolutely gorgeous. Of course, it also looks like tons of dandruff falling. But maybe that's just me.

I walked from Changgyeonggung to Changdeokgung, it is possible, but probably not advisable. I don't know if it was because I got lost (what's new?) or the snow made the walk miserable (yes, it was romantic, for all of 10 minutes).

Changdeokgung is the palace with the secret garden. I was contemplating if I should get a full ticket, which includes a tour of the secret garden, but I'm glad I didn't because my fingers went numb and froze and I just wanted to thaw somewhere (did I mention this was the first time I experienced this much snow?).

Literally meaning ‘The Palace of Prospering Virtue’, the verdant grounds of Changdeokgung Palace are arguably the nicest of all five palaces. Set flush within a large park in Jongno-gu, it is at times referred to as the East Palace given its location in respect to Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Interestingly, it is reported that Changdeokgung was the favored palace among the many kings of the Joseon Dynasty and has since retained many traditional Korean elements dating from the Three Kingdoms Era – elements that were not taken into account during the construction of the neighboring buildings of Gyeongbokgung. One such notable difference is the fact that the architecture of Changdeokgung harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding nature without appearing intrusive or destructive in the process.

The treasured secret garden of biwon is particularly beautiful. Replete with pavilions, ponds and wooded areas, the palace grounds of Changdeoksugung are wonderfully infused with all things natural, tucked deeply away amidst trees and draping foliage that buffer out the noise and commotion of the city nearby.

Getting There Take subway Line 3 to Anguk Station and get out at Exit 3. Changdeokgung Palace is open from 09:15~17:45 (April ~ October) and 09:15~15:45 (November ~ February). In March, visiting hours are from 09:15~16:45. Entry is permitted every 15 and 45 minutes past the hour. The palace is closed Mondays. Entry to the palace is only permitted with a guided tour. Visitors do not have to join the tour on Thursdays. Admission is 3,000 won. Source

Admirable helpers hard at work so that snow doesn't have a chance to become ice.

Here's an Instagram shot that is closer to how romantic the palace feels, if you are not trembling in the cold, and how hard it was to get a clear shot of the palace as above.

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Machiam dandruff..

Love/Hate snow.

Seoul, South Korea: Changgyeonggung in Winter

The palace that once housed a museum, a zoo and a conservatory on its sprawling grounds is the one to visit if you don't want to jostle with the crowds.

Seoul is home to not one, not two, but five palaces. The first palace I visited in Seoul, South Korea is Changgyeonggung in winter 2013 because I could walk there from my hostel (it did take a while because I took one wrong turn too many).  I will remember it for being the most peaceful. It's the palace to visit if you want shots that do not have people.

Built in 1483, Changgyeong (Flourishing Gladness) Palace was one of the "eastern palaces" along with Changdeok Palace because they sat east of Gyeongbok Palace. In the last years of the dynasty, the Japanese occupiers built a zoo, botanical garden and museum in the palace compound with a view to symbolically undermining the royal status of the dynasty. The palace was restored in 1984 with the removal of the structures added by the Japanese. Source

Changgyeonggung was first called Sugganggung. After ascending the throne in 1418, King Sejong built this palace for his father, former King Taejong, to live. In 1483, the palace was expanded and Myeongjoongyeon, Munjeongyoen, Tongmyeongyeon, and other buildings were built for Queen Jeonghui, queen of King Sejo. Queen Sohye, queen of Deokjong, and Queen Ansun, queen of King Yejong. At that time, the palace was renamed Changgyeonggung.

All of the buildings were burned down during the Japanese Invasion in 1592, and the palace was rebuilt in 1616.

In 1830, another great fire broke out and many of the palace's buildings were destroyed by the fire, and those were rebuilt in 1834. The main hall of Myeongjeongjeon, however, was undamaged, and the building that was rebuilt in 1616 is preserved today. It is the oldest main hall of a Joseon era royal palace, and has been designated National Treasure No. 236.

In 1909, a public zoo and conservatory were built in Changyeonggung.

In 1911, the Japanese empire built a museum in the palace, and the museum, zoo and conservatory were collectively called Changgyeongwon (Changgyeong Gardens, demoting Changgyeonggung from the status of palace.

From December 1983 to August 1986, renovation work was carried out to return it to its original state as a royal palace. The name was changed back to Changgyeonggung, and the zoo and amusement park facilities within the palace were removed. Munjeongyeon, ---- and the auxiliary buildings around Myeongjeongjeon were rebuilt.

This marks where court officials should stand based on their ranks. The higher the rank the nearer to the king.

Then it started to snow. All museums are marked with this "totem".

On the outskirts of the palace, I make my way along the walls to my next destination, as the snow falls hard and fast.

South Korea December 2013: Top 5 Trip Highlights

An Instagram Gallery Post

How can anyone pass up budget tickets to Seoul! I definitely couldn't! I think the tickets cost under S$300 for the peak December holidays when I booked a couple of months before departure (as usual). I'm not sure if I would snap them up if I knew how cold it could get...

In Dec 2011, I was unprepared for Taipei's winter (10+ Celsius), but I didn't learn my lesson in Dec 2012, when I headed to Japan (below 10+). When booking for air tickets for South Korea, I foolishly assumed that Seoul wouldn't be that much different from Japan. Because I swore I wouldn't put myself through the cold, rain and short days. Until the run-up to the trip did I realise that Korea is so cold it snows in December.

Nepal (yes, you heard it right, I also visited a Nepal in 2013) was great training for Seoul, though I must say Seoul is colder on average. And I encountered more snow in Korea! In fact, the most snow I've seen, and trudged through. It's white, it's romantic, but it's brrrr.. Cold. My pet peeve, frozen and numb fingers and toes. Thank goodness for down jackets, thermals and yak wool(cashmere just won't cut it).

It's actually my second trip to South Korea but my first free-and-easy one, so I either revisited places worth going, or new places (I.e. Jimjilbangs) that they won't bring you in a package tour. My trip in summary (Yeah, they are Instagram shots in my original caption, which may seem incoherent to most but I am retaining it for authenticity):

Machiam dandruff..

Slipped for this shot. 

Just.had.to.grab.some.strawberries.

You really can't trust korean ahjumma's english. I meant 'saaalt barbeque' not 'sttttrong spicy' which really explains why im at gongcha hongik uni. With wifi and korean surround sound.

Wonder what this can be?

Greetings from 'the largest shopping complex in the world'. Pray tell me what I'm doing in the lobby leeching on wifi.

On the subway. Hip!

Why I love train rides. Snow ride for the first time ever!

Snowed on the first day. And last night! Home bound.

I know people will typically list food and shopping as highlights for their trip, especially to Seoul... But here are the highlights of my trip (with the original Instagram caption in parentheses):

5. GIMBAP

4. PANCAKE

3. DMZ/JSA DAY TRIP

2. GAMCHEON CULTURAL VILLAGE

5. GIMBAP - Cheap and good (And now I'm hungry..)

4. This Pancake. (Day 3 and this is the ONLY thing I ever see Koreans queue for (apart for the subway). Cheap and oh-so-good.)

3. Get close to JSA (Nearest we get to the North without going there, at the JSA)

And find out about the stories. (The setting sun marks the end of yet another peaceful day. Something we shouldn't take for granted.)

2. GAMCHEONG CULTURAL VILLAGE. (Prefer Kaoshiung to Taipei, Osaka to Tokyo and BUSAN to Seoul. The 5h delayed train ride was worth it!!)

1. Without a doubt, JIMJILBANGS! There are no photos because... I'm too busy "chillaxing" to take photos.

Soak in the water, get a scrub by an ahjumma, and stay overnight

A quick review:

- Siloam (Seoul Station - best location and conducive for real sleep)

- Dragon Hill (Youngsan Station - most privacy for couples *wink wink*)

- Haeundae Spa in Busan (Haeundae Station - best sleep for Busan trip)

- Hongdae Happy Day Spa (Hongdae - this was the hardest to find, almost cried and gave up looking (2 hours?), until 2 Korean ladies finally understood what I was saying (most just wave you away) and searched on their phones to find that I had been walking up and down but kept missing it. It also gets very cramped and noisy on weekends as people stream in throughout the night after partying.)

I was expecting an orange signboard. But if you really insist on visiting Happy Days in Hongdae. Here's what you should look out for (Grr....)