Ghent, Belgium: A Walk Around the City

From Antwerp, I ventured on to Ghent, where I stayed for the night. The hostel had the safest reviews, and the view of Graslei and Korenlei along the Leie River, a tributary of the Scheldt, is particularly beautiful by night. The tagline of the Visit Ghent site is 'More than a one night stay', although I only stayed for one night, it is definitely worth staying longer. This is my Walking Tour, Ghent Edition.

GHENT

Ghent is still a well-kept secret and is definitely worth a visit. Visitors who are already familiar with the city have become loyal ambassadors. Ghent has so much more to offer than the Castle of the Counts and the splendid views of Graslei and Korenlei. It offers a unique combination of authenticity, creativity and natural local flair. What’s more, it’s a human-scaled city in the heart of Flanders with added value thanks to its many waterways.Assets and highlights

Ghent is still a well-kept secret and is definitely worth a visit. Visitors who are already familiar with the city have become loyal ambassadors. Ghent has so much more to offer than the Castle of the Counts and the splendid views of Graslei and Korenlei. It offers a unique combination of authenticity, creativity and natural local flair. What’s more, it’s a human-scaled city in the heart of Flanders with added value thanks to its many waterways.

First of all its excellent location. And of course The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, the tryptych by the Van Eyck brothers that is displayed at St Bavo’s Cathedral. Moreover, Ghent is the only city with a lighting plan, which illuminates the streets and buildings at night, showcasing them from a different angle. Ghent is also the festival city of Flanders, boasting the largest outdoor city festival in Europe. And if you’re a fan of flowers, you’ll undoubtedly know that Ghent hosts a highly prestigious flower exhibition, the Floralies. Last but not least: which other city has a real castle in its city centre?

Renowned opinion makers have branded Ghent a beautiful destination. Our city is praised in many ways far across our national borders: by National Geographic Traveler Magazine and Lonely Planet, it was crowned UNESCO City of Music, Veggie Capital of Europe, City of Light etc. Credit

Here are some of my picks*:

1. Gravensteen

Gravensteen (meaning "Castle of the Counts" in Dutch) is a castle that dates back to the Middle Ages. It once served as a court, factory, and almost faced demolition. It was finally bought over and restored by the city and the state, making it a key attraction in the city today.

Visit: http://gravensteen.stad.gent/en 

2. St Michael's Bridge and Korenmarkt

Not only does the St Michael's Bridge offer a view of both Graslei and Korenlei, as you walk across the bridge from the side of Gravensteen towards Korenmarkt, the view ahead is stunning whether in the day or at night. Check out the restaurants, grab some ice cream, or stand in awe of Saint Nicholas' Church (Sint Niklaaskerk).

Twenty years ago (Korenmarkt) was a car park. Today it is the heart of the largest pedestrianised shopping area in Europe. The former post office building from 1909, with its façade that is ornately decorated with statues and coats of arms - was turned into a shopping centre. Don’t forget to look up at the beautiful clock tower. Credit

Enjoy a 360 degrees view of Ghent from the St Michael's Bridge.

3. Graslei and Korenlei (read full post here.)

My first night in Europe after a long flight and I forced myself to stay awake to catch the sunset (the sun sets at 10 plus in summer). No regrets.

Ask ten inhabitants of Ghent what the most beautiful place in their city is and nine will answer the Graslei. Today this medieval port with its unique row of historical buildings, which are reflected in the long river, is the meeting place par excellence. Young and old, inhabitant and visitor, everyone meets on one of the many café patios or simply by the water. This is the thriving heart of the inner city. The house of the Grain Weighers, the Guildhall of the Free Boatmen, the Spijker… every house on the Graslei has its own history. Together they form the story of the incredible blossoming of Ghent’s economy during the Middle Ages. On the other side of the water is the Korenlei. All that remains of some of the original buildings is the outer walls! Behind them is a brand new hotel. Credit 

4. Stadshal

The Stadshal is worth a mention because this edgy building stood out among its neighbours. This multi-functional and open city pavilion is a cafe, city park and work of art rolled into one that can host events like concerts, performances and markets.

5. Stadhuis (City Hall)

From 1301, the Ghent magistrate was composed of 13 aldermen of the Keure, charged with the administration of the city, and 13 aldermen of Gedele, who dealt wit matters of inheritance and guardianship. Shortly afterwards, the municipality decided to buy three premises at the Hoogpoort. And so, the foundations of the town hall complex were laid.

The still existing rooms of the house of the Keure were built in different campaigns. Around 1516-17, the first plans were drawn up for a new municipal house. Only a quarter of the originally large-scale plans were completed. During the end of the 16th century, the building was extended with a remarkable renaissance facade.

If you go inside, you will also encounter all sorts of different styles. There is the Armoury Hall with the wooden vault, the splendid Wedding Chapel with the Counts of Flanders immortalized in six stained glass windows, the Pacification Hall with its floor of black and white stones, designed as a labyrinth, symbolizing the pursuit of justice and happiness.

One half flamboyant Gothic style and one half sober Renaissance style, entry will cost you 5 Euros, but here's a detailed and free virtual tour of the Stadhuis.

6. Het Belfort van Gent

The Belfry is one of three medieval towers in Ghent (the other two are at Saint Bavo's Cathedral and Saint Nicholas' Church). Together with 23 belfries in Flanders and 6 in Wallonia, it was inscribed into the UNESCO World Heritage List on December 4, 1999. Entry will cost you 6 Euros but hey, you can claim bragging rights to having climbed the tallest Belfry in Belgium at 91 metres.

Visit: http://www.belfortgent.be/engels/homeen.html 

7. Saint Bavo's Cathedral

When Charles V was baptised there in 1500, the metamorphosis from a closed Romanesque church to a spacious Gothic one was fully underway. However, despite substantial financial support from the emperor, the cathedral still remained unfinished 58 years later. As a result, the funeral service for the deceased sovereign could not take place there.

All that remains of the original Romanesque church is the crypt. St. Bavo’s Cathedral houses an impressive number of art treasures: the baroque high altar in white, black and red flamed marble, the rococo pulpit in oak, gilded wood and marble, a major work by Rubens, the ‘Calvary Triptych’, attributed to Joos van Wassenhove, alias Justus van Gent, tombs of the Ghent bishops, and much more. However, one work stands out head and shoulders above the rest: the world-famous Adoration of the Mystic Lamb painted by Hubert and Jan van Eyck around 1432.

Since the spring of 2013, the tower of the Saint Bavo Cathedral has been under scaffolding, undergoing a major overhaul. The tower and four stained glass windows are top of the list. The works will be carried out from top to bottom and the scaffolding will be taken down as soon as a section has been completed. But that will be some time in coming, because the restoration works won’t be over for at least four years. Credit

Visit: http://www.sintbaafskathedraal.be/

8. Supermarkets

Galler Chocolatier - Pistaches Fraiches is worth a mention in this list. Visit any supermarket and raid the shelves. Only in Belgium.

More Information

The official Ghent tourism site

Getting into Ghent

Train travel between cities in Belgium are fast and affordable. My typical modus operandi is to ask the ticket seller, which is the fastest and cheapest train to my destination, and when and which platform it will depart from. There are 2 train stations in Ghent - Gent Sint-Pietersstation and Gent Dampoort. Alight from the train at the station that is closer to your destination in Ghent. I arrived from Antwerp at Dampoort and left for Brugges at Sint-Pietersstation.

Sint-Pietersstation is the larger of the two, with rather interesting interiors and exteriors.

Getting Around Ghent

I had little difficulty navigating around Ghent on foot or by bus given the complimentary tourist brochures and bus stop information around the city. Should you meet any difficulties, just ask and the locals will be more than happy to help you out. I thought the Visitors' Information Centre (Sint-Veerleplein 5, 9000 Gent) near Gravensteen wasn't exactly easy to find, but once found, very sleek and informative.

*There are stars on the map I deliberately left out, don't fret. With limited time and money, there were some attractions which I did not pay to enter, or were closed on the day of my visit.

Antwerp, Belgium: A Walk Around the City

It is time to venture outside the historical Antwerpen-Centraal Station.

Cities in Belgium are just the way I like it, suitable for a day-trip, yet charming enough should you wish to stay longer.  Using the Google Maps offline features, I had earlier saved some attractions in Antwerp for my Walking Tour, Antwerp Edition.

ANTWERP

Antwerp – city on the Scheldt, city of Rubens, of diamonds, of fashion, a port city... The sum of all these different aspects is what makes Antwerp into a real city: a vibrant, welcoming metropolis, which is also great fun and heart-warming, with green areas where you can relax and peaceful corners. Antwerp is a veritable cultural capital, which prides itself on its impressive architecture and splendid art. Moreover, Antwerp is a fashionista’s dream destination thanks to the stores of its world-renowned designers. The cafes only serve the best beers and foodies can enjoy the most delicious traditional and multicultural cuisine in the city’s restaurants. Antwerp: a pocket-sized metropolis which is sure to conquer anyone’s heart in no time at all. - Credit

Here are some of my picks*:

1. Antwerpen-Centraal Station (full post here.)

2. Antwerp Diamond District

A stone's throw away from the Train Station is Antwerp's Diamond District, or Diamond Quarter. While it is intriguing to wander around what is the largest diamond center in the world (comprising workshops, banks and exchanges that deal with more than half of the world's rough diamonds), if you are not looking, there's only so much you can do here. Spot the various characters of the diamond trade: brokers, merchants, and craftsmen (or diamantaires).

3. The Meir

The Stadsfeestzaal Shopping Mall is located along the wide, cobbled street of the Meir, Antwerp's main shopping street. With shopping, food, buskers, good art and no traffic, the stroll along the Meir is both leisurely and entertaining. Pop by a genuine palace, Paleis op de meir, once the residence of important rulers such as Napoleon Bonaparte, Willem I of the Netherlands and the Belgian Royal House.

 

4. St. Carolus Borromeuskerk

St. Charles Borromeo Church is a perfect example of Baroque architecture in the Southern Netherlands.

Rubens

The church was commissioned by the Jesuit order and built between 1614 and 1621. The decoration of the facade, the top of the tower and many paintings inside the church are the the work of Rubens. The church was part of a larger Baroque complex in what is known as Conscienceplain today.

Status Symbol

The church was a status symbol of the Jesuit order until it was disbanded in 1733 by order of the Pope. In 1803 the church was designated as an independent parish church. Under Dutch rule WIlliam I of Orange wanted to turn over the church to the Protestants, but the Catholic parishoners raised sufficient funds to buy the church and carefully restore its facade.

Flammable

Unfortunately the church also suffered several calamities. On 18 July 1718 the church was struck by lightning. During the ensuing fire the amazing marbles and 39 unique ceiling paintings by Rubens were irretrievably lost. In 20009 a fire raged in the church once again but this time around all the masterpieces were preserved.

Did you know?

There are two secret doors in the sacristy. These enabled the Jesuits to eavesdrop.

 

5. Cathedral of Our Lady Antwerp

Apart from the Train Station, the Cathedral of Our Lady Antwerp is another landmark of the city. Read more about it on Wikipedia here. This world heritage site is an work of art inside and out, itself a home for many works of art. It is free to examine the outside of the Church but it will cost you to explore the inside.

Visit: http://www.dekathedraal.be/en/

6. Grote Markt and Antwerp City Hall

If there is one place you have to visit in any Belgian city, it has to be the Grote Markt or Great Market Square - an expansive space in the heart of the city, surrounded by iconic (and photogenic) buildings. In winter time, Antwerp's Grote Markt transforms into a Christmas market and an ice rink, or so Wikipedia says.

7. FRITUUR NO. 1 (HOOGSTRAAT 1)

A Belgian I met while trekking in Sapa proudly shared that French Fries should really be called Belgian Fries. Frituur No. 1, overrated or understated, it doesn't matter, I had to try some Frites for myself.

 

8. Schelde River and Hetsteen

Schelde or Scheldt River is an important waterway that passes through France, Belgium and Netherlands, so it's no surprise that Antwerp would be home to one of the largest ports in Europe (after Rotterdam).

The Fortress's gatehouse

The Steen is Antwerp's oldest building. It is situated along the River Scheldt near the former Werf peninsular. A first settelement with earth fortifications was built on the Weft in the ninth century, which subsequently became a fortress. Around the turn of the century (1100- 1200) a stone wall and the Steen, one of the fortress's three gatehouses, were added. Under Charles V, in the early sixteenth century, the Steen was completely refurbished as can be evidenced from the differences in colour in the facade.

The Steen held its ground

The Werf was stripped at the end of the nineteenth century in order to straighten the Scheldt quays. Today the Steen is the only reminder of the fortress that once stood there. The Steen was renovated, refurbished and expanded in 1889-90 with a neo-Gothic wing.

From prison to museum

The Steen was used as a prison until 1823. After the Steen had been consecutively used as a residence, a saw mill and a fish warehouse it reopened in 1862 as a museum. Initially the museum focused on ancient times; from 1952 until 2008 it was home to the National Maritime Museum. Today this collection has been moved to MAS | Museum aan de Stroom where it is now on display.

Did you know?

A striking detail above the Steen Gate is the Semini Statue, an ancient fertility symbol. The Jesuits maimed the statue in the sixteenth century, hacking off the penis.

9. Plantin-Moretus Museum (full post here.)

Visit: http://www.museumplantinmoretus.be/Museum_PlantinMoretus_EN 

10. Bakkerij Goossens (Korte Gasthuisstraat 31)

This bakery had great reviews on Yelp, but I didn't manage to find it (or was it closed?). :(

11. Rubens House

Visit: http://www.rubenshuis.be/museum_rubenshuis_en

A beautiful backdrop

In 1610 Peter Paul Rubens and his wife, Isabella Brant purchased the house and land along Wapper. The artist would enlarge the house and designed a semi-circular statue gallery, a large studio, a portico and a pavilion in the garden. He drew inspiration for his plans from Roman Antiquity and the Italian Renaissance. Peter Paul Rubens and his family lived in this beautiful house for more than 25 years.

Unprecedented grandeur in Antwerp

This building with its opulent decorations, which were inspired by Classical Antiquity, was unrivalled in Antwerp. Rubens' interventions turned the house and garden into a veritable palazzo, an Italian urban palace. Here he also stored his impressive art collection.

An impressive art collection

After Rubens died in 1640 the Rubens House remained an attraction until the 18th century. IN 1946, the Rubens House finally opened its doors as a museum. The master painted the majority of his masterpieces, such as the Descent from the Cross and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, in his studio in the Rubens House. The museum's collection includes a self-portrait and the art room with part of Rubens' original art collection.

Did you know?

In Rubens' time, Wapper was not a square. In fact, a canal, named Herentalse Vaart, flowed here supplying the city with fresh water. To draw water from the canal a crane was positioned near the canal, which moved up and down ('wippen' in Dutch). Hence the name Wapper.

More Information

The official Antwerpen tourism site

Getting around

It's easy to get around the city on foot as there are signposts that will guide you to the key attractions around the city. That said, the trams, trolley buses and horses are other options to get around the city.

*There are stars on the map I deliberately left out, don't fret. With limited time and money, there were some attractions which I did not pay to enter, or were closed on the day of my visit.