Saturday, September 30, 2017

Chiangrai, Thailand: Coffee Journey

I enjoyed Chiangmai and Chiangrai. Very much. It's that plain and simple. I would revisit, in a heartbeat. I haven't returned to Bangkok in years, but I think I might still choose Chiangmai over Bangkok (I think), or maybe take a long train ride and visit both

The main reason for our visit was for the Akha Ama coffee journey up to Maejantai village in Chiangrai, to see and experience coffee picking firsthand. Our friend, B, had gone on the journey, not once, but twice, so that sure counts as a pretty good reason to embark on it too in my book. In fact, on our trip, there were several international travelers who were repeat coffee journeyers. That's the allure of the village, and the journey. 

Compared to B's previous trips, I think they were able to accommodate more people (with more villagers generously opening up their homes) and when there used to be more foreigners, there were more locals on our trip, I assume, because of the growing awareness and appreciation among locals (both wonderful scenarios). 

If you are interested in embarking on the journey for yourself, there is something beautiful about going in green, with open eyes, ad more so, an open mind. But if you want a glimpse of what to expect, bearing in mind that your experience may differ substantially, and my memory almost one year on is sub-par, read on!

The Coffee Journey (25-27th November 2016)

We booked our places once we knew it opened (around August) after religiously stalking their Facebook page, and website. B and R had these super antennae for sniffing out these updates. Upon confirmation (and payment), we were provided with the itinerary, which since is not shared on their website publicly, I won't either. But I would say it involves two nights in the village - two lovely nights, with all meals provided - you'd be very well-fed! (You do not, and should not, expect a 5-star hotel experience. But I love the hospitality and simplicity of the stay.)

Day 1

Quite a bit of time is taken travelling from Chiangmai to Chiangrai to the village, but it's a good time to get to know your fellow travelers, or take in the country sights. We had a stopover for coffee (and lunch - soooo good!) and had to switch from a song thaew to a 4WD (to go up the mountains, obviously).

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

It was about here when the driver pointed out that we were crossing the Chiangmai-Chiangrai border.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

A debrief and orientation around the village upon arrival

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Spotted in the local school

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Puppy up for grabs. Feed it and it's yours. Or so I heard.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

My homestay.
It's my host's living quarters and honestly I was stunned and embarrassed to say the least when I stumbled back in the dark to sleep when they were out watching their usual late night drama. It was still a very good and sound sleep! #thanksforopeningupyourhouse The daughter of the host family informed me (in fluent Mandarin no less!) that they would be building an annex of sorts to host homestay guests in the near future, as the village welcomes more visitors. #stillstayhomelyplease

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Out on a rock waiting for my slow leisurely fellow travelers to get ready while counting down to the sunset

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Dinner - Literally from farm to table (or banana leaf on floor)
Imagine just plucking some fresh vegetables (of known origin - your backyard) just before dinner, naturally sweet, and no seasoning required. #thelife

Chiangrai Thailand

Day 2 - the main coffee day

How else to complete the journey with free flow of coffee before, during, and after meals. Of course, I get distracted all over before breakfast, by wildlife.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

The raccoon dog

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

We have visitors

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Who really just want to use the bathroom. #thanksforqueuing

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Snooping around the village before breakfast. Lots of action going on.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

And it's time for breakfast! Haven't figured out how to cook porridge like this. One day!

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

The other queen of snacks stayed with a host that ran the convenience store. Coincidence? I think not. I had to sneak some snacks for tasters, even up the mountains.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Post-breakfast, it was a walk to the coffee farm for some introduction to coffee appreciation (and coffee cherry plucking)

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

An issue with planning such a trip is that you have to time the trip nicely to coincide with the time when the cherries are ripe of picking. Fortunately, or unfortunately, it wasn't a good time, with more green than red.

Chiangrai Thailand

Evidence that I did try and didn't slack off (that much). No one has told me how big those pants (from Istanbul!) make my bum look. No one. #stillcomfy

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Combined harvest of four people. Four unsuccessful careful people.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Got distracted... by weeds.

Chiangrai Thailand

Then it was time for some food tasting. To sensitize our sense of smell and taste I presume. First, smell, then taste. In between? Get distracted.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Lunch. I don't have to know exactly what's on the menu, but I know for sure, I'm in good hands!

Chiangrai Thailand

What we did with fruits, nuts, spices, is repeated, this time with... coffee. (duh) Whole beans, ground coffee without water, then ground coffee with water.

Chiangrai Thailand

The model answer. The funny story goes like this - I didn't understand the procedure and thought the worksheet was an anticipation guide of sorts, so I sniffed the whole beans and made my best prediction guess of the flavors. #threecoffeesothreedistinctflavors #testtaker

Chiangrai Thailand

Some post-picking processing. While they get some help with machinery, clearly some aspects remains very manual and they are selective about the beans that "make the mark" - which explains the well-deserved price tag of coffee

Chiangrai Thailand

Lee's mother - hard at work, and mind you, she has a hand in prepping all our meals in the village too! But I would say, an active mind, and an active life, makes for a good long life.

Chiangrai Thailand

The walk back to the village. While walking you wonder when it will end, when you reached the destination, you wish it would be longer. Time-tested. 

Chiangrai Thailand

Well played, my friend, well played.

Chiangrai Thailand

All ready for dinner! I think it was just before this that I also freaked out my host's daughter while waiting to use the bathroom downstairs. Which was huge by the way, huge. Also, I had to use it by the light of my mini dynamo torch. (I'm sure there's a bulb but I'm not sure where the switch was).

Chiangrai Thailand

Hanging out at R's "pad"

Chiangrai Thailand

Dino snack is good! Also, I was inspired to eat instant noodles as snacks by the local travelers.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Food, clean air, fresh scenery aside, the night sky in Maejantai is beautiful.
As captured by my phone below. #notnamingnames
So beautiful you have to see it for yourself. (Again, I think any star-studded sky would look just as good, I'm just born and bred city gal.)
P.S. Huawei phones take good night shots

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Note to self: chicks can hop in and out. Chickens, cannot.

Chiangrai Thailand

Day 3
The usuals. The goodbye.
Oh and finally, we meet the cat.

  Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand
Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Snazzy idea.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Coffee chickens. Kind of reminds you of kopi luwak?

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Up to the "observatory"

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

I spy a cat. Do you?

Chiangrai Thailand

Breakfast - our last meal in the village. B loves this food. I'm a B-eliever too.

Chiangrai Thailand

Altogether now... Awww....

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

And it's time to bid farewell to the village.

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

Chiangrai Thailand

As a fan of fishball-related dishes, I want to try this again!

Chiangrai Thailand

Closing remarks:

You don't have to be a fan (huge or otherwise) of coffee to partake in this journey with Akha Ama. I know I'm not, and did not become a convert (yet). Nonetheless, it's no reason, in fact, there is no reason, not to enjoy this well thought out, co-ordinated and hosted
Coffee Journey.

A bonus: You can't have this food anywhere else. 

P.S. I don't see anything up for Coffee Journey 2017 so they might not have it this year. A pity but I'm sure they have their reasons. And I'm so glad we went for it in 2016! Of course, I am still hoping to re-visit sometime.

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