I enjoyed Chiangmai and Chiangrai. Very much. It's that plain and simple. I would revisit, in a heartbeat. I haven't returned to Bangkok in years, but I think I might still choose Chiangmai over Bangkok (I think), or maybe take a long train ride and visit both.
The main reason for our visit was for the Akha Ama coffee journey up to Maejantai village in Chiangrai, to see and experience coffee picking firsthand. Our friend, B, had gone on the journey, not once, but twice, so that sure counts as a pretty good reason to embark on it too in my book. In fact, on our trip, there were several international travelers who were repeat coffee journeyers. That's the allure of the village, and the journey.
Compared to B's previous trips, I think they were able to accommodate more people (with more villagers generously opening up their homes) and when there used to be more foreigners, there were more locals on our trip, I assume, because of the growing awareness and appreciation among locals (both wonderful scenarios).
If you are interested in embarking on the journey for yourself, there is something beautiful about going in green, with open eyes, ad more so, an open mind. But if you want a glimpse of what to expect, bearing in mind that your experience may differ substantially, and my memory almost one year on is sub-par, read on!
The Coffee Journey (25-27th November 2016)
We booked our places once we knew it opened (around August) after religiously stalking their Facebook page, and website. B and R had these super antennae for sniffing out these updates. Upon confirmation (and payment), we were provided with the itinerary, which since is not shared on their website publicly, I won't either. But I would say it involves two nights in the village - two lovely nights, with all meals provided - you'd be very well-fed! (You do not, and should not, expect a 5-star hotel experience. But I love the hospitality and simplicity of the stay.)
Day 1
Quite a bit of time is taken travelling from Chiangmai to Chiangrai to the village, but it's a good time to get to know your fellow travelers, or take in the country sights. We had a stopover for coffee (and lunch - soooo good!) and had to switch from a song thaew to a 4WD (to go up the mountains, obviously).
It was about here when the driver pointed out that we were crossing the Chiangmai-Chiangrai border.
A debrief and orientation around the village upon arrival
Spotted in the local school
Puppy up for grabs. Feed it and it's yours. Or so I heard.
My homestay.
It's my host's living quarters and honestly I was stunned and embarrassed to say the least when I stumbled back in the dark to sleep when they were out watching their usual late night drama. It was still a very good and sound sleep! #thanksforopeningupyourhouse The daughter of the host family informed me (in fluent Mandarin no less!) that they would be building an annex of sorts to host homestay guests in the near future, as the village welcomes more visitors. #stillstayhomelyplease
Out on a rock waiting for my
Dinner - Literally from farm to table (or banana leaf on floor)
Imagine just plucking some fresh vegetables (of known origin - your backyard) just before dinner, naturally sweet, and no seasoning required. #thelife
Day 2 - the main coffee day
How else to complete the journey with free flow of coffee before, during, and after meals. Of course, I get distracted all over before breakfast, by wildlife.
The raccoon dog
We have visitors
Who really just want to use the bathroom. #thanksforqueuing
Snooping around the village before breakfast. Lots of action going on.
And it's time for breakfast! Haven't figured out how to cook porridge like this. One day!
The other queen of snacks stayed with a host that ran the convenience store. Coincidence? I think not. I had to sneak some snacks for tasters, even up the mountains.
Post-breakfast, it was a walk to the coffee farm for some introduction to coffee appreciation (and coffee cherry plucking)
An issue with planning such a trip is that you have to time the trip nicely to coincide with the time when the cherries are ripe of picking. Fortunately, or unfortunately, it wasn't a good time, with more green than red.
Evidence that I did try and didn't slack off (that much). No one has told me how big those pants (from Istanbul!) make my bum look. No one. #stillcomfy
Combined harvest of four people. Four
Got distracted... by weeds.
Then it was time for some food tasting. To sensitize our sense of smell and taste I presume. First, smell, then taste. In between? Get distracted.
Lunch. I don't have to know exactly what's on the menu, but I know for sure, I'm in good hands!
What we did with fruits, nuts, spices, is repeated, this time with... coffee. (duh) Whole beans, ground coffee without water, then ground coffee with water.
The model answer. The funny story goes like this - I didn't understand the procedure and thought the worksheet was an anticipation guide of sorts, so I sniffed the whole beans and made my best
Some post-picking processing. While they get some help with machinery, clearly some aspects remains very manual and they are selective about the beans that "make the mark" - which explains the well-deserved price tag of coffee
Lee's mother - hard at work, and mind you, she has a hand in prepping all our meals in the village too! But I would say, an active mind, and an active life, makes for a good long life.
The walk back to the village. While walking you wonder when it will end, when you reached the destination, you wish it would be longer. Time-tested.
Well played, my friend, well played.
All ready for dinner! I think it was just before this that I also freaked out my host's daughter while waiting to use the bathroom downstairs. Which was huge by the way, huge. Also, I had to use it by the light of my mini dynamo torch. (I'm sure there's a bulb but I'm not sure where the switch was).
Hanging out at R's "pad"
Dino snack is good! Also, I was inspired to eat instant noodles as snacks by the local travelers.
Food, clean air, fresh scenery aside, the night sky in Maejantai is beautiful.
As captured by my phone below. #notnamingnames
So beautiful you have to see it for yourself. (Again, I think any star-studded sky would look just as good, I'm just born and bred city gal.)
P.S. Huawei phones take good night shots
Note to self: chicks can hop in and out. Chickens, cannot.
Day 3
The usuals. The goodbye.
Oh and finally, we meet the cat.
Snazzy idea.
Coffee chickens. Kind of reminds you of kopi luwak?
Up to the "observatory"
I spy a cat. Do you?
Breakfast - our last meal in the village. B loves this food. I'm a B-eliever too.
Altogether now... Awww....
And it's time to bid farewell to the village.
As a fan of fishball-related dishes, I want to try this again!
Closing remarks:
You don't have to be a fan (huge or otherwise) of coffee to partake in this journey with Akha Ama. I know I'm not, and did not become a convert (yet). Nonetheless, it's no reason, in fact, there is no reason, not to enjoy this well thought out, co-ordinated and hosted
Coffee Journey.
A bonus: You can't have this food anywhere else.
P.S. I don't see anything up for Coffee Journey 2017 so they might not have it this year. A pity but I'm sure they have their reasons. And I'm so glad we went for it in 2016! Of course, I am still hoping to re-visit sometime.
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